January 6, 2009

Mountain Climbing Training

Altitude acclimatization is the process of adjusting to decreasing oxygen levels at higher elevations, in order to avoid altitude sickness(see mountain climbing safety). Once above approximately 3,000 metres (9,800 feet), most climbers and high altitude trekkers follow the "golden rule" - Trek/Climb High, Sleep Low. For high altitude climbers, the way to acclimatise is to stay a few days at base camp, climb up to a higher camp (slowly), stay there for one night initially, then return to base camp. This process is then repeated a few times, each time extending the time spent at higher altitudes to let the body "get used" to the oxygen level there. Once the climber is used to that altitude, the process is repeated with a camp placed at higher elevations. The general rule of thumb is to not ascend more than 300 metres (1,000 feet) per day to sleep. That is, one can climb from 3,000 to 4,500 metres (14,765 feet) in one day, but one should then descend back to 3,300 metres (10,825 feet) to sleep. This process cannot be rushed, and this explains why climbers need to spend days (or even weeks at times) acclimatising before attempting to climb a high peak.

In the athletic arena, it is thought that acclimatization to high altitudes enhances performance compared to training at sea level. However, these assumptions have not been backed with any significant evidence. Contrary to these beliefs, studies have shown that athletes may not be able to train with as much intensity at high altitudes compared to sea level.

Yet, for those determined to adjust to high altitudes, without being at high altitudes, inventors have cranked out state-of-the-art altitude acclimatization devices. Chambers that reduce barometric pressure, hydrobaric chambers with increased nitrogen concentration (which reduces oxygen), and tents that supply a limited amount of oxygen are used by athletes to acclimatize to high altitudes.

Finally, it is important to realize that to benefit from altitude acclimatization, one must stay in that altitude for a long period of time. Any benefits of altitude acclimatization are lost quickly by those who only dwell in high altitudes, or simulated circumstances, for a short amount of time.

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