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Height of photography

Reuters Mar 5 2010 10:27PM GMT

Interview with Former Climbing Mag Editor Matt Samet

<img src="http://z.about.com/d/climbing/1/0/H/A/-/-/climbing-magazine-101.jpg"hspace="5"align="left"> Once upon a time all of our climbing news came from magazines. Back in the early 1970s there was a handful of climbing magazines. Summit, a monthly that was edited by a couple older ladies, was staid, prim, and proper. Certainly no swear words, nothing beyond, "Dang it Royal, send me up those baby angles!" It, of course, focused on summits. Us American climbers, clad in white painter pants and EBs, would sometimes pick up the British magazine Mountain and marvel at its creative writing and stunning photos of routes and peaks around the world. And then there was Climbing Magazine. In 1970 the now venerable <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dclimbing%2Bmagazine&#038;mode=about_climbing">Climbing Magazine</a> was founded by Colorado climber Harvey T. Carter in Aspen. That thin black-and-white journal morphed over the years into a fat periodical in its heyday in the 1990s. Climbing Mag was simply the American standard. Now climbing magazines are changing and, like newspapers and other magazines, trying to redefine their place on our coffee tables. The digital age has taken its toll on the printed page. The American climbing rags now published--<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dclimbing%2Bmagazine&#038;mode=about_climbing">Climbing</a>, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=www.alpinist.com/">Alpinist</a>, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D1920%2Fform_keyword%3Drock+and+ice+magazine%2Frd%3D1%2Fskd%3D1%2Fst%3Dquery&#038;mode=about_climbing">Rock and Ice</a>, and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Durban%2Bclimber%2Bmagazine&#038;mode=about_climbing">Urban Climber</a>--are not exactly flush with ads and their page numbers have dwindled over the past ten years. Colorado climber and blogger Peter Beal offers an incisive and enlightening two-part interview with former <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dclimbing%2Bmagazine&#038;mode=about_climbing">Climbing Magazine</a> editor-in-chief Matt Samet on Peter's excellent climbing blog <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.mountainsandwater.com/">Mountains and Water</a>. Matt gives a good behind-the-cliff look at the economics and challenges of publishing a climbing magazine in today's fast-paced Internet world of instant news, unedited trip reports and climbing stories, soulless photography, and being beholden to corporate America and its profit-driven shareholders. It raises lots of interesting questions about how we will continue to document our beautiful sport. <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.mountainsandwater.com/">Read Matt Samet's interview on Mountains and Water.</a> Subscribe to a climbing magazine: <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dclimbing%2Bmagazine&#038;mode=about_climbing">Climbing Magazine</a> <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D1920%2Fform_keyword%3Drock+and+ice+magazine%2Frd%3D1%2Fskd%3D1%2Fst%3Dquery&#038;mode=about_climbing">Rock and Ice Magazine</a> <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Durban%2Bclimber%2Bmagazine&#038;mode=about_climbing">Urban Climber</a> <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=www.alpinist.com/">Alpinist</a> Photograph above: My old Arizona climbing buddy Jim Waugh made the cover of Climbing back in the 1980s wearing lycra that can only be described as UGLY! <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/03/03/interview-with-former-climbing-mag-editor-matt-samet.htm">Interview with Former Climbing Mag Editor Matt Samet</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010 at 22:18:12.<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/03/03/interview-with-former-climbing-mag-editor-matt-samet.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/03/03/interview-with-former-climbing-mag-editor-matt-samet.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/03/03/interview-with-former-climbing-mag-editor-matt-samet.htm&#038;zItl=Interview with Former Climbing Mag Editor Matt Samet">Email this</a>

Learning Rock Climbing Photography

Outdoor Photographer Feb 8 2010 4:31PM GMT

How to create outstanding landscapes

Photography Monthly Jan 25 2010 6:15PM GMT

Meeting Climbers at the Outdoor Retailer Winter Market

<img src="http://z.about.com/d/climbing/1/0/r/9/-/-/ORShow_002_HenryBarber.jpg"hspace="5"align="center"> Going to the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City for me is not just doing some business but also to catch up with friends and to meet new people. I've been going to this gig at least once a year for the last 17 years so I've got to know a lot of retailers, manufacturers, as well as lots of climbers. This time I visited with <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.henrybarber.com/">Henry Barber</a>, who back in the 1970s was one of America's best climbers as a prolific first ascensionist, free soloist, and traveling climber. Henry, who does motivational speaking and consulting, lives a short walk from the base of Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway, New Hampshire. He said he climbed in eleven countries last year, including lots of rock routes in Switzerland. Henry still climbs old-style, eschewing the use of cams and placing only nuts--<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingequipmentwords/a/StoppersDef.htm">Stoppers</a> and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingequipmentwords/a/HexcentricDef.htm">Hexentrics</a>--for protection. I finally met <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.claudialopezphotography.com/">Claudia López</a>, a talented photographer from Columbia who now lives just up the interstate from me in Boulder, Colorado. Claudia, working on a long-term project about the <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://asianhistory.about.com/od/glossaryps/g/GlosSherpa.htm">Sherpas</a> in <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://asianhistory.about.com/od/nepal/p/nepalprofile.htm">Nepal</a>, brought a dummy copy of a proposed book and we talked about her vision for the photos and text. I look forward to holding the real thing when she finishes it. Check out her website <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.claudialopezphotography.com/">ClaudiaLopezPhotography</a> for a look at her wonderful mountaineering images and portraits of Sherpa climbers. <img src="http://z.about.com/d/climbing/1/0/s/9/-/-/ORShow_009_BethRodden.jpg"hspace="5"align="left"> At the climbing wall, I met up with Beth Rodden, who was signing posters of her first ascent of Meltdown, a 5.14 pitch in <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://gocalifornia.about.com/od/cayosemite/a/valley.htm">Yosemite Valley</a> that is one of the hardest traditional-style gear pitches in the United States. Beth is currently recovering from an injury to her right hand. Later I met Katie Ives, the talented and smart editor of <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.alpinist.com/">Alpinist Magazine</a>. We talked about arcane climbing philosophical points, like why do we name routes and the motivations of long-time climbers. I also chatted with other climbers in the book industry. I talked with Fred Knapp, an old friend and publisher of <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.sharpendbooks.com/">Sharp End Publishing</a>, about his new comprehensive Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide by Steve Levin, and Dave Pegg with <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.wolverinepublishing.com/">Wolverine Publishing</a> in western Colorado and his new books including Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs by Bob D'Antonio. Earlier, Alan Watts, one of the first sport climbers in the United States, stopped by the Falcon Guides booth to sign a few copies of the long-awaited second edition of his landmark climbing guide to <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Drock%2Bclimbing%2Bsmith%2Brock&#038;mode=about_climbing">Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park</a> in Oregon. It's a beautiful 500-page, four-color guide to over 1,800 routes at Smith Rock, one of America's best sport climbing areas. After Alan left to take his son back up to a snowboarding competition at Park City, Scott Adams with Falcon Guides told me, "A while back I had the owner of a climbing shop in Bend, Oregon call me and say, 'Is it true that Alan finally finished his new Smith Rock guide?' After I said 'Yes,' he said, 'Well, I'd like to order 300 copies. I want to be the first one to get it.'" If you like to climb at Smith, check it out. Photographs above: Stewart Green visits with Henry Barber at the Falcon Guides booth and Beth Rodden signs posters at the Climbing Wall. Outdoor Retailer Winter Market, Salt Lake City. Photograph © Stewart Green and Larry Siedl <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/01/24/meeting-climbers-at-the-outdoor-retailer-winter-market.htm">Meeting Climbers at the Outdoor Retailer Winter Market</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Sunday, January 24th, 2010 at 18:34:10.<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/01/24/meeting-climbers-at-the-outdoor-retailer-winter-market.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/01/24/meeting-climbers-at-the-outdoor-retailer-winter-market.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/01/24/meeting-climbers-at-the-outdoor-retailer-winter-market.htm&zItl=Meeting Climbers at the Outdoor Retailer Winter Market">Email this</a>

The Outdoors Show returns in March

Digital Photography Now Jan 14 2010 4:29PM GMT

A world of art: Photography winners capture breathtaking images from around the globe

Mail Online UK Dec 9 2009 4:59AM GMT

UTSA photography exhibit shows traditional lives in South Asia

University of Texas at San Antonio Sep 5 2009 4:33AM GMT

Wayside Inn exhibit shows the photography of Framingham couple

Daily News Tribune Aug 20 2009 5:06AM GMT

Travel photography: the complete picture

Sydney Morning Herald Aug 11 2009 2:52AM GMT

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